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    Thread: Stuck transmission, input shaft seized to clutch disk

    1. Member ClownTrigger's Avatar
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      02-08-2009 10:22 PM #1
      Ok, so this isn't actually on a VW, but it's basically the same thing. '02 Elantra, clutch is spent. I'm trying to pull the trans, and the input shaft is seized into the clutch disk. I can get a little space between the bellhousing and the block where I can get a prybar, but the most I get is about 3/4" gap that closes back up when I let off the prybar. I'm guessing I'm flexing the pressure plate or the sprung disk. There isn't enough room to get to the pressure plate bolts, and there's no handy little inspection hole where you can get at them either. Does anybody know any old school tricks, or am I just going to have to drop the crank and pull the crank/clutch/trans out together?

      Why am I posting this here? The damn Elantra is keeping my Mk2 out of my garage. The sooner I finish this, the sooner I can get my Monty back in there and change the starter so I can drive it again, and also get back to building my 16v/ABA.


    2. Member ClownTrigger's Avatar
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      02-09-2009 07:36 PM #2
      Nobody?

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      02-11-2009 03:17 PM #3
      Have you tried an Authorized Dealer Service Department?

      Did you read the service manual to make sure that everything that needs to come off has been removed? VWs are not like other cars, and if that is all the experience you have, there is a good chance you missed something.


    4. Member ClownTrigger's Avatar
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      02-11-2009 04:25 PM #4
      No, it's not exactly like a VW. It has a clutch fork in the bellhousing like most japanese cars, and the flywheel, not the pressure plate bolts to the crank. I'm using the factory service manual, and according to it, there's no special trick or extra step that isn't required for any other FWD transaxle. The previous generation elantra shared the same family of engine as the mitsu 4G63, of which I've removed and replaced several of. It's really weird. I can get it off of the alignment pins far enough that I can actually turn it about the input shaft, but it just won't slide out. There's nothing else to unbolt. My next course of action is to drop the crank, but I really didn't want to get into all that.

    5. 02-12-2009 01:51 PM #5
      did the car drive before...if the input shaft is seized to the clutch disk the clutch would have never disengaged...i am a professional tech and i have never seen something like that

    6. Member ClownTrigger's Avatar
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      02-12-2009 03:17 PM #6
      Yeah, the clutch was just spent. Interesting point, but it's the pressure plate that moves, not the clutch disk. Just like your brake calipers. Only one thing actually moves (piston side pad) and everything else just gets squeezed together. It would be like having a stuck caliper slide. The outside pad would wear too fast, the car would probably pull, but it could still turn with your foot off the brakes. That could be why the clutch went bad in the first place. If one side of the disk is worn more than the other... well... we'll just have to wait and see.

    7. 03-18-2009 07:15 AM #7
      you ever figure this out

    8. Member ClownTrigger's Avatar
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      03-19-2009 10:01 AM #8
      Quote, originally posted by sheimbach »
      you ever figure this out

      Yeah, turns out the factory service manual was wrong. They showed a 2001 transmission instead of a 2002 transmission. I figured it out by looking at the 2003 manual. The 2001 transmission is just like I explained, but the 2002 transmission uses a pull type pressure plate like a Honda. The TO bearing snaps into the PP fingers and then the release fork pulls it toward the transmission when you press the pedal. All I had to do was pull the arm off of the fork shaft to allow it to rotate backwards enough to let go of the TO bearing.

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